Cycling the Underground Railroad

  Day 21:  WAVERLY TO DOVER, TN (BY CAR) Today is April 1, but the weather was no joke and I am no fool. The temperature was literally freezing this morning, with a 10-15 mph headwind and the wind chill at 25 degrees Fahrenheit.  None of my research and planning indicated anything even close to this cold.  I didn't have enough clothing to prevent hypothermia or frost bitten fingers and toes.  This proved to be a weather delay of a different kind.  Even by early afternoon, the wind chill was still only 36 degrees with 15-24 mph winds.  So I made the decision any self-respecting touring cyclist absolutely loathes to make.  To stay on schedule, I needed to make it 44 miles up the road to Dover, Tennessee.  So I set out to find a ride. Jen, who was working at the Imperial Lodge in Waverly said she wouldn't mind taking me, but she had to pick up her daughter.   But she put me in touch with La Lani at Highland Rim Economic Corporation, an...

DAY 20: REST/REPAIR/REHYDRATE/RE-PLAN DAY IN WAVERLY, TN No riding today.  Both my bike and my body needed a "down" day. After consulting with Carolyn last night, I made the decision to forego two nights of camping (weathered one storm in a tent,  not excited to repeat that).  I mailed home 20 pounds of camping related gear.  (This may also make these here hills a bit easier to climb.) After doing the obligatory laundry (to get the stink out), I replaced a broken spoke on my rear wheel and trued it, as well as doing some needed cleaning and lubing.  I feel better about the condition of my steed, and am ready to roll tomorrow.  I felt myself getting pretty dehydrated the last few days, so I have been really conscientious about my fluid intake today.   For dinner, I ate at Sam's Diner,  a few doors down from my motel.  The chicken to the left is Eugene, so I was informed.  It's a small place, about 8 or so tables. And everyone obvious...

DAY 19: MOUSETAIL LANDING TO (ALMOST) WAVERLY, TN I AM in the hills of Tennessee! Over 40 miles today on backwoods, backcountry roads.  Not a single gas station, convenience store or eatery the entire way. This was probably my second hardest day of cycling so far.  Had to cross six steep ridges.  The inclines on some were so great I had to push my loaded bike a ways to get over the top.  I'm sure you can identify the "hills" from this profile: What was psychologically difficult was that I could see ahead each mountain I'd have to cross. ANOTHER ridge to cross. But as much as I am complaining about the hills, western Tennessee and the area around the Tennessee River is very eye catching. with contrasts between the woodlands, farms and pastureland.  A relatively flat "holler" among the hills. And then there is (literally in this case) the local color.  Somebody is making the best of their trailer life! Welcome to Mojito Island! (Kind of like Wastin' Away i...

DAY 18: CRUMP TO MOUSETAIL LANDING STATE PARK (NEAR PERRYVILLE, TN) Cool, clear skies, and sunny with light winds.  NO RAIN!  I'll take it. More scenic backroads in Tennessee. Within a few miles I was once again on country backroads in Tennessee.   For the first hour the climbs were steep, frequent and brutal.   But I was rewarded with breathtaking views of the Tennessee Rivet Valley. Great view at the top of the climb of the Tennessee River Valley. For most of the ride, I was following roughly the Tennessee River Trail Scenic Byway. I met some new friends today.  Some of these cuties were so small I could have easily put them in my panniers.   I was very tempted! New friends. I love seeing how people decorate their yards.  This was my favorite today--giant chickens and blue glass bottles as flowers.  More fascinating yard art! Crossing the Tennessee River a few miles before I arrived at my campsite, I was again amazed how grand thi...

DAY 17:  Counce to Crump, Tennessee  I'm finding that the day after a storm passes through is often a good day to ride.  Today was cool, with a bit of a headwind, but sunny.   No worries about rain today.  Antique Mall in Counce, Tennessee On my way out of Counce, I once again enjoyed some of the local flavor.  Ole Charlie's Antique Mall was closed today (many stores are shut down or close early on Sundays here in the South).  Would have loved to seen inside! If walls could talk.... On the main thoroughfare for just a few miles, the Underground Railroad route took me on back country roads, the destination being Shiloh National Military Park.  I passed the cabin above with an old well in front, and wondered what stories the wall could tell. Last night's storms dumped a lot of rain, and there were weather alerts for flooding still in effect this morning.   Twice my way was blocked.  The white in the far left of the photo below is...

DAY 16:  TISHOMINGO TO COUNCE, TENNESSEE  The reverie of sleep was rudely interrupted by Mother Nature at 2 AM by loud claps of thunder and bright flashes of lightning, accompanied by sometime heavy rain which lasted for just over an hour.   Having anticipated this event (thank you, National Weather Service), the tent was firmly staked down and everything inside was dry. By 7:30 AM, there was no sign of continued precipitation, so I packed up my wet gear and continued northward.  Since another strong storm system was bearing down on me, I deviated from Adventure Cycling's prescribed route to cut off about 20 miles to guarantee I had shelter for the afternoon and evening. Bozo's Used Cars in Tishomingo, Mississippi. My brother Kent (the other half of Shelley Brothers Cycling Adventures) has been following me faithfully on this trip, checking out potential points of interests, campgrounds, motels and restaurants.  (I guess he feels I need additional expert as...

DAY 15: AMORY TO TISHOMINGO  The storm cleared, and the weather was great this morning.  I combined two shorter days into one so I could still have an extra day in my pocket, especially to deal with the unpredictability of this unusually unstable Spring weather. Still following the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, the first 25 miles to Fulton, Mississippi seemed to go by fast.  North of Fulton,  the terrain got hillier for a while,  and the going got a little slower. Turns out that John E. Rankin wasn't who I thought this lock and road was named for. I was now on the John Rankin Highway, a delightful stretch of road, except for the frequent dog attacks/chases.  I have lost count of the number of canine encounters I've had on this trip; they've become daily (and on most days, multiple) events.  I now keep my "Halt!" Dog repellent in my jersey pocket for quick access.  I'm now glad I brought two cans.  I'll probably use them both by the end of the...