Cycling the Underground Railroad

DAY 15: AMORY TO TISHOMINGO 

The storm cleared, and the weather was great this morning.  I combined two shorter days into one so I could still have an extra day in my pocket, especially to deal with the unpredictability of this unusually unstable Spring weather.

Still following the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, the first 25 miles to Fulton, Mississippi seemed to go by fast.  North of Fulton,  the terrain got hillier for a while,  and the going got a little slower.

Turns out that John E. Rankin wasn't who I thought this lock and road was named for.

I was now on the John Rankin Highway, a delightful stretch of road, except for the frequent dog attacks/chases.  I have lost count of the number of canine encounters I've had on this trip; they've become daily (and on most days, multiple) events.  I now keep my "Halt!" Dog repellent in my jersey pocket for quick access.  I'm now glad I brought two cans.  I'll probably use them both by the end of the trek.  I have just an inkling of what it might have felt like being hunted by dogs as runaway slaves were attempting to secure their freedom.

Local crafts for sale along the road.

It's been fascinating to observe the flavor of the different areas I ride through.  I had to stop and check out these bird houses.  I almost bought one and strapped it to my bike.   I regret not doing so.

If you look back at the second blog (November 10, 2020), you'll see a picture of the John Rankin Home in Ohio.  A Presbyterian Minister, he was an unabashed abolitionist and one of the most active "conductors" on the Underground Railroad.   I was skeptical and curious why, here in Mississippi they would honor him with a highway. 

Turns out, the skepticism was not unwarranted.   The road was named for John E. Rankin, a bigoted politician who served 16 terms as the Congressman from northeast Mississippi from 1921-1953. He supported legislation to make interracial marriage a criminal offense, voted to cut G.I. benefits for Black Veterans, as well as voting to intern Japanese-Americans during WWII.  A dedicated segregationist, defintely not the same John Rankin.

More logging!

Once again, a lot of logging going on, and more than a few of those dangerous logging trucks on the road.

A view of those dreaded logging trucks.

Toward the end of the day,  I was riding on the Natchez Trace, a 444 mile historic road that connects Nashville, Tennessee with Natchez, Mississippi.   Originally an trail used by Mississippian Native Americans  for trading amongst themselves, before the steamboat was used on the rivers it became the path taken by those who worked flatboats on the Mississippi to return to Nashville, as the current was too strong for barges to make it back upstream.  Meriwether Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark expedition, died on The Trace. 

Cycling along the famous Natchez Trace.  Gentle grades, no commercial vehicles!

Today, the National Park Service oversees this historic route, and commercial traffic is not allowed, making it a sweet bike ride.

Today's destination, a beautiful state park.

Tonight I camped at Tishomingo State Park, just off the Natchez Trace.  I had difficulty finding a semi-level place for my tent, as the terrain slopes down steeply into a lake.  But, alas, I discovered a suitable spot overlooking the water.

Camping beside a lake (again).

The sky was clear and the moon was full as I fell asleep to the croaking frogs, chirping crickets and sounds of other forest creatures.  But I knew the solace was not to be long lived. 

The bright moon betrays the fact that a storm is on its way in a few hours.

Today's Mileage:  59.5

Total Distance to date:  562 miles