Cycling the Underground Railroad--Part 2

Reflections on Yesterday (New Albany to Madison)

After sufficient rest, I'm now able to write about the sights of yesterday.

Not far from my motel I spied this old phone booth sheltering an ATM machine.  Pretty clever!

Riding through New Albany was an "old" experience in that many of the pre-Civil War structures are still standing.  The first was the "Town Clock Church" (officially the former Second Presbyterian Church, which was sold to (and still is) the Second Baptist Church after the war.  Here is an old photo of New Albany.  At the end of the street the spire of the church is visible.

Beginning in 1837, the preachers of Second Presbyterian were very vocal in their opposition to slavery.   Good evidence exists that the church hid and aided fugitive slaves on their way to freedom.  The spire of the church is very visible from the Kentucky side (I witnessed this Friday coming from the airport) and served as a beacon to those seeking release from their bondage.  Here was my view of the church as it is now, from the street.

Just a bit further down the street my eye caught this massive mansion.

The Culbertson Mansion, New Albany, IN

Built in 1867 in the "French Second Empire style," it was occupied by this New Albany industrialist and philanthropist.  The other side of the house looks over the Ohio River.  Quite a piece of real estate!

Louisville area has some amazing bridges, new and old, and riverfront parks.  Nothing quite like this in Arizona, folks. 

Bridge from Louisville, KY to New Albany, IN

Amphitheater on the riverfront in Jeffersonville, IN and bridge to Louisville. 

It is fascinating to me how many bike tours I've done where I've crossed the path of Lewis and Clark!  Once again, in Indiana, I find myself in their company.

This day's ride was a pleasant mix of settings.  The ride in Indiana across from Louisville definitely had an urban cycling vibe.  It was Saturday, and I don't think I've ever been passed by so many triathalon bikes--solo riders, small groups, and one pack of at least 20 riders!  And their were others who were just enjoying the ride.  (I might have been able to keep up with those folks!) 

I rode along the riverfront, through forest preserves and woodlands tunneled but great trees; through small towns--some charming and some not-so-much.  

And over farmland, sometimes through corn canyons, where the stalk walls blocked out everything but the sky above.  Sometimes floating through a sea of soy, with their dark green leaves surrounding me right and left.  And across fields rich in grasses with no fences between me and their carpet.

One of the most favorite encounters was with Dave, about 10 miles from today's destination.  I came to one of those country roads, stopping to take a drink in an attempt to avoid dehydration in the humidity I am very unaccustomed to.  Shortly after turning the corner, this guy comes to the road and waves me down.

"I saw you just took a break, but would you consider taking another one and talking a bit?"

Of course I consented.  I rarely turn down an opportunity to take a break. 

"What am I missing?" he asks.  "I see you guys cycling past with your gear and all.  So what is going on?"

I explain to Dave that his roadside plot is on Adventure Cycling's Underground Railroad route, and show him on the map.  He gets excited. 

I find out Dave is 53, a recently retired nurse, and that his wife stll works as a nurse.  "I've saved money all my kife, cuz people told me to," and now he wants to do something with it.  He plans to build a gazebo type shelter where bikers can pitch their tents and spend the night for free.  He's also going have a little shack where bikers can get drinks and snacks.  I shared with him about my ride and gave him my contact information.  He was delightful!

Dave, if you read this, I really hope you'll be in touch!

About an hour later I arrive on the west side of Madison, tired but happy!

DAY 2:  Madison, IN to Sparta,  KY

When I awoke this morning, last night's rain was beginning to subside.  That gave me a bit later start, but it was ok.  I needed the extra rest, and the ride was a shorter distance today.

An exhilarating downhill glide brought me into the river town of Madison, Indiana.  The city has done a great job of keeping it's historic charm, and it was bustling with visitors this labor day weekend. 

A few blocks off the main street was the Georgetown neighborhood, which from the early 1800s was a thriving Free Black community, and a vital link in the Underground Railroad in this region.  I had emailed the town's Visitors Center before I left, and they sent me a guide to the historic buildings in the 10 square block area, giving the history of a a dozen familes and properties. 

William Douglass Home, 307 E 5th St

Douglass's home is in the boxy "Federal style." It was built around 1840. Douglass was minister of the AME Church, which was located next door, and active in the Underground Railroad. 

The Georgetown African Methodist Episcopal Church, 1850, built in the Greek Revival style.

The other homes on the tour were occupied by blacksmiths, brick masons, wheelwrights, and businessmen.  The neighborhood thrived until the passage of the Fugitive Slave Act of 1850, which even endangered Free Blacks.  The passage of Indiana's 13th Amendment in 1851 which prohibited blacks from residing in the state further weakened the community. 

After enjoying lunch at The Red Roaster Coffee & Eatery, I crossed the Ohio Rivet on the Madison-Milton bridge to Kentucky.

The Ohio River from the Madison-Milton Bridge. 

For almost 20 miles I pedaled alongside the Ohio, at some points close to the water.  It was beautiful and serene--except for the occasional passing car.  At Carrollton I turned away from the river and "enjoyed" cycling the long and sometimes steep hills of Kentucky.   But the scenery was idyllic.  

And I noticed that while the small groups of houses in the "hollers" of the Deep South I rode through in March were unkempt and dilapidated, those similar outposts here in Kentucky were neat and taken care of.  Interestingly, this same contrast was made by Harriet Beecher Stowe's Uncle Tom"s Cabin, written in 1850 (which I finished on my flight to Louisville).

As I neared Sparta, I heard a train whistle.  The road curved and I began paralleling railroad tracks (which is good news for cyclists, as it normally means the grades of the roads are gentler).   Near a crossing, I spied a friend who was moving about as fast as I was.  We greeted each other, then went our separate ways. 

I stopped in Sparta to enjoy an ice cold drink before climbing a 2-mile hill to tonight's motel.

Today's milage: 40.9 

Total milage this trip: 97.5

Total miles on the Underground Railroad*: 1,188.0

*March-April Trip + September-October Trip