Cycling the Underground Railroad

Mural in New Albany, Indiana. An appropriate theme for this trip!  BEGINNING AT THE END  Today started with a 6 AM takeoff from Prescott, Arizona to Denver, then onto Muhammad Ali International Airport in Louisville,  Kentucky, followed by an Uber ride to New Albany, Indiana--where I finished the Southern section of this Underground Railroad adventure in April.  This ride I start out in a " free state" (versus a ,"slave state"), which I have discovered wasn't so free after all. I arrived just in time to catch the outstanding exhibit, "Ordinary People, Extraordinary Courage" at the New Albany Carnegie Center for the Arts and History.  I learned MANY things,  and was reminded of others.  Here are some of the takeaways. New Albany, now a small town on the Indiana side of the Ohio River across from Louisville, Kentucky, was Indiana's largest city in 1850, and the second largest shipbuilding center on the River, producing three times as many boats as Lo...

 GETTING EDUCATED To get the most out of this journey, I'm continuing to read and explore.  Here is what I've delved into in preparation for experiencing the "borderlands"--along the Ohio River where the North met the South, and anti-slavery and pro-slavery sentiments were very strong. Beyond the River: The Untold Story of the Heroes of the Underground Railroad, by Ann Hagedorn   is a meticulously researched and comprehensive narrative of the life of John Rankin, his family and his colleagues--both black and white--in the Ripley, Ohio area.  The author actually lives in Ripley, and brings a lot of local color to her work.  I plan to go to Rankin's home on this trip. Uncle Tom's Cabin, by Harriet Beecher Stowe  is a classic, and arguably one of the most influential American literary works of the 19th Century.  I think most of us had read parts of this book in a high school or college English or literature class, but I can't say ever remember the entire ...

HURRICANES AND RE-ROUTES  It's almost here! Friday I leave Prescott to fly to Louisville, Kentucky to start the second leg cycling this Underground Railroad adventure. The original plan was to ride from Louisville (just north of Owensboro on the above map) to Owen Sound, Canada--the end of the route, via the Detroit Alternate (top map).  But then, the Canadians closed their border.  Then the U.S. closed their border.  And the Canadians opened their border.  And the U.S. opened up theirs!  (All systems go, right?)  Except, on Monday, the U.S. closed their border (again).  Ugh! Technically, I might be able to get across, because my brother and faithful riding buddy Kent, lives in Ontario.  As I am a "blood relative," I am eligible for an exemption.  HOWEVER, there are a number of sticking points to this plan: I would have to get a specific COVID test (PRC, the nasal swab one) within 72 hours of crossing into Canada.  (A bit difficult ...

The Entire Trip--Mobile, Alabama to Louisville, Kentucky.    I decided to roughly edit this blog, add some actual maps from Strava (a cycling app), and put everything in one place for easier reading.  I have attached a link to the first draft of what I've entitled "Following the Drinking Gourd:  Adventures Cycling the Underground Railroad-Part 1. There's a lot to read here, but perhaps you'd just like to browse through the photos.   Enjoy! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PjdFpJj4US_YmOEg4_oMeknzZrRwge6W/view?usp=sharing 

DAY 29:  BRANDENBURG, KY TO NEW ALBANY, IN (LOUISVILLE, KY) In a Free State, but not quite free. The Brandenburg Bridge leading to Indiana  (not to be confused with the Brandenburg Gate in Germany). Today was the last leg of the first half of this journey.   I'm in Indiana, the 6th state on this trek.  I crossed the Ohio River once again, but this time via a bridge at Brandenburg,  Kentucky.  "Indiana wants me..." The attitude toward "runaway slaves" was still not friendly in this part of the country, and recapture was a serious risk.  They would need to go further up river to find reliable "conductors" to help them across to safety.  Little road through the big woods. On this final day of this trip, the pedalling took me through forests and farmlands. Little hills (and big hills, not shown) In trying to imagine what it it might have been like to be escaping enslavement, I felt slightly "exposed" as I rode through valleys where the land had b...

DAY 28:  LEWISPORT TO BRANDENBURG, KY Today was the 2nd longest ride of this part of the Underground Railroad route.  But it was also one of the most special.  I was joined by Mark and Cheryl Dobbs of Indianapolis.  Mark and Cheryl Dobbs.  Mark would be my riding companion for the day! I have known Mark for over 50 years.  His dad, the late Dr. Howard Dobbs, was the Minister at the church I grew up in.  He was a very important mentor and friend even into my adult life.  I say without hesitation that he was one of the most significant influences in my life.  His wife, Carolyn, was my long suffering piano teacher (of which I was a horrible student). Mark celebrating his 60th birthday riding over 60 miles on Highway 60. Today was Mark's 60th birthday.  There is a tradition among "mature" cyclists to ride your age in miles on your birthday.  Here he is (above) on his 60th birthday riding 60 miles on U.S. Highway 60. He actually rode 69 ...

DAY 27: OWENSBORO TO LEWISPORT, KY An IHOP restaurant was right next to my motel this morning, so I decided on breakfast there.  As I was getting on my bike ready to leave, a server who was outside on a break asked where I was going.  I shared my story and gave here one of my "travel cards." "Travel Card" I had printed to share my ride along the way. She was eager to know about the Equal Justice Initiative.  After giving a brief overview (trying not to be overly verbose), she reached into her apron and handed me $10 from her tip money.  I told her that really wasn't why I shared, and I thought she probably didn't make a lot, and that I really  appreciated her heart. "No.  I really want to do this!" I gratefully accepted her donation.  I was truly humbled.  What a way to start this day! More of Owensboro's Adkisson's Greenbelt. Owensboro, Kentucky's cross-town bike path is pretty impressive.  Yesterday and today I was able toi ride west ...