Cycling the Underground Railroad

  DAY 25:  MORGANFIELD TO HENDERSON, KY Today was a treat, in a number of ways.  Easier cycling today over gentle rolling farmland along the river. First,  this was the easiest riding day I've had in three and a half weeks. Not only was the distance short (29 miles), but I pedaled through farmland that was slightly rolling, with no monster hills!  I could get used to this. Fields of flowers, perhaps being grown for commercial purposes. The weather was also delightful--sunny with the high in the mid-70s and a slight tailwind.  I rode past fields of yellow flowers that looked like they were planted intentionally (although I was not able to identify them). An ideal Spring day on which to cycle.  First Missionary Baptist Church in Henderson, Kentucky.  It has been serving it's community, mostly African-American, since 1866! Henderson is the first sizable city I've encountered since Columbus, Mississippi.  Traffic was very busy on U.S. Highways 60...

DAY 24: CAVE-IN-ROCK, IL TO MORGANFIELD, KY Cave-in-Rock is a small town, only about 300 people.  But it has character! Cave-in-Rock is a place of interesting geology and history. The natural cavern in the limestone cliffs above the Ohio River was first noted by a French explorer in the 1700s.  During the 1800s it became a hideout for river pirates, counterfeiters, and a couple of serial killer brothers, among other famous criminals.  I tried to get up to the cave this morning, but the floodwaters from the recent storms made it impossible to get there.  Here is a view from the ferry.  Cave-in-Rock from the ferry. I found it fitting that today, on Easter Morning, I was attempting to get a look inside a cave, probably similar to the one Jesus was buried in and rose from.  Made this Resurrection Sunday a bit special (not that it's not always  special!). The Opry House provided entertainment for this small riverfront town. The town is not hopping, but it h...

DAY 23:  GRAND RIVERS, KY TO CAVE-IN-ROCK, IL Enjoying another (kind of) flat portion in the Kentucky countryside. Today's ride had a bit of everything--hills (of course), undulating farmland, riverside views, even a ferry ride.  I ended up in beautiful Cave-in- Rock State Park, IL. My first point of interest today was Smithland, Kentucky, which sits at the confluence of the Ohio and Cumberland Rivers.  It was a very strategic location for the Union Forces during the Civil War as they moved into the Deep South.  Smithland, at the confluence of the Ohio and Cumberland Rivers. Kentucky was unique during the Civil War, declaring itself "neutral," neither aligned with the North or the South.  Kentucky was a "slave state," but it's citizens strongly believed in One Nation.  Neutrality didn't last, as the Confederacy invaded Kentucky, who would then side with the Union. The strategic location of Smithland provided the North with a place to launch gunboats and ...

  DAY 22:  DOVER, TENNESSEE TO GRAND RIVERS, KENTUCKY  I know, another weather report.   But this may be noteworthy.   Wind chill was 22 degrees when I woke up ready to ride this morning.  Kent (the other Shelley Brother) texted me to inform me that it was colder where I was in Tennessee than it was in Ontario, Canada! Even with all four of my layers of clothing on, no way was I going to risk being turned into  frozen cycling statue.  But by 11am, everything had inched its way above freezing, and I braved the cold (which, for those of you who know me, is highly uncharacteristic). A great slice of land between the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers. Most of the day I was cycling The Trace through Land Between the Lakes (or LBL, as it's called by the locals). A "trace" is what the early pioneers in this area called the natural trails.  I biked part of the Natchez Trace in Mississippi.  "The Trace" here is a shortened version of "The...

  Day 21:  WAVERLY TO DOVER, TN (BY CAR) Today is April 1, but the weather was no joke and I am no fool. The temperature was literally freezing this morning, with a 10-15 mph headwind and the wind chill at 25 degrees Fahrenheit.  None of my research and planning indicated anything even close to this cold.  I didn't have enough clothing to prevent hypothermia or frost bitten fingers and toes.  This proved to be a weather delay of a different kind.  Even by early afternoon, the wind chill was still only 36 degrees with 15-24 mph winds.  So I made the decision any self-respecting touring cyclist absolutely loathes to make.  To stay on schedule, I needed to make it 44 miles up the road to Dover, Tennessee.  So I set out to find a ride. Jen, who was working at the Imperial Lodge in Waverly said she wouldn't mind taking me, but she had to pick up her daughter.   But she put me in touch with La Lani at Highland Rim Economic Corporation, an...

DAY 20: REST/REPAIR/REHYDRATE/RE-PLAN DAY IN WAVERLY, TN No riding today.  Both my bike and my body needed a "down" day. After consulting with Carolyn last night, I made the decision to forego two nights of camping (weathered one storm in a tent,  not excited to repeat that).  I mailed home 20 pounds of camping related gear.  (This may also make these here hills a bit easier to climb.) After doing the obligatory laundry (to get the stink out), I replaced a broken spoke on my rear wheel and trued it, as well as doing some needed cleaning and lubing.  I feel better about the condition of my steed, and am ready to roll tomorrow.  I felt myself getting pretty dehydrated the last few days, so I have been really conscientious about my fluid intake today.   For dinner, I ate at Sam's Diner,  a few doors down from my motel.  The chicken to the left is Eugene, so I was informed.  It's a small place, about 8 or so tables. And everyone obvious...

DAY 19: MOUSETAIL LANDING TO (ALMOST) WAVERLY, TN I AM in the hills of Tennessee! Over 40 miles today on backwoods, backcountry roads.  Not a single gas station, convenience store or eatery the entire way. This was probably my second hardest day of cycling so far.  Had to cross six steep ridges.  The inclines on some were so great I had to push my loaded bike a ways to get over the top.  I'm sure you can identify the "hills" from this profile: What was psychologically difficult was that I could see ahead each mountain I'd have to cross. ANOTHER ridge to cross. But as much as I am complaining about the hills, western Tennessee and the area around the Tennessee River is very eye catching. with contrasts between the woodlands, farms and pastureland.  A relatively flat "holler" among the hills. And then there is (literally in this case) the local color.  Somebody is making the best of their trailer life! Welcome to Mojito Island! (Kind of like Wastin' Away i...